London’s charming India Club is closing, and I feel bereft
A modest candle of quirkiness and affordability has been snuffed out, so the capital can have another luxury hotel.
ByFood
How Vittles trolled London
The newsletter seems to hold its readers in low esteem.
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Hunger in Britain is mainstream now
Gregg Wallace’s savage satire about the cost-saving benefits of human flesh consumption exposes a day-to-day reality.
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The black dessert-maker who helped bring ice cream to the masses
More than 170 years after his death, Augustus Jackson is remembered as an American confectionery pioneer.
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I refuse to feel shame after eating – but it saddens me that so many women still do
I thought moralised comments about eating were a thing of the past, but then I went on a girls’ holiday.
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The ultra-processed food swindle
Engineered to trick our taste buds and appetites, artificially produced food is ruining our health and damaging our children. But…
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Welcome to the cost-of-adaptation crisis
Climate change is disrupting the food systems we rely on – and the free market offers no solutions.
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We’re getting poorer at a slightly slower rate than last month
Inflation has fallen to 8.7 per cent, but prices – especially food – are still rising dangerously.
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The scourge of greedflation
A fifth of the UK is going hungry. Yet this is a crisis the political class seems unable to grasp.
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Why does everyone love coronation chicken?
The origins of the dish are clear, but its popularity is mysterious.
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Consider the noble octopus
The Canary Islands will soon host the world’s first industrial octopus farm. But there is no humane way to slaughter…
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The New Age of Tragedy
Great-power rivalry, resource scarcity and the crumbling of the liberal rules-based order.
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The identity politics of the coronation quiche
To the likes of Nigel Farage, this celebratory recipe is “politically correct”, vegetarian and, worst of all, French. Why has…
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Henry Dimbleby: fake meat is a trade-off worth making
The author of the government’s National Food Strategy is “a big fan of using alternative proteins in processed food”.
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What the soaring price of milk tells us about Britain’s greedflation problem
Milk price inflation has risen to 38.4 per cent, driven largely by retailers’ markups.
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You can’t eat profits
A democratic vision for England’s tormented farmlands.
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What makes an unforgettable meal? The time, place and company – and the butter
The cannellini and chard on toast roars with garlic, but that alone cannot explain its magic.
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“I put 7,000 oysters in the skip”: the fishing industry fights for survival in polluted waters
With sewage spilled into waters around the UK hundreds of times a day, one shellfish producer says the industry is…
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Why Italians get upset when you appropriate their food
Americans getting carbonara wrong and calling pasta noodles annoys us – but not for the reasons you think.
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Over Scotch eggs I am, to my shame, schooled in “The Pardoner’s Tale”
My friend Ben tells me the plot in such a way that I am suddenly inspired to read it, in…
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